Papalo BBQ In La Mesa Enters Strategic Partnership With Owner Of San Diego's City Tacos

Chef Drew Bent's Papalo Sonoran Barbecue Kitchen in La Mesa has entered a new chapter with a strategic partnership with the owner of San Diego’s City Tacos.

After nearly a year of operations and earning praise from Texas Monthly for its Sonoran-style Mexican barbecue, Papalo is now majority-owned by Gerry Torres, who launched City Tacos in North Park in 2014 and has since expanded to eight locations. This partnership aims to grow the Papalo brand, with discussions underway about potential new locations, including the possibility of converting an existing City Tacos location into a Papalo, though nothing is confirmed yet.

Chef Andrew "Drew" Bent, a graduate of the Art Institute of California, has a rich culinary background, having worked in esteemed kitchens like Searsucker, Puesto, and Carnitas' Snack Shack. He's also had international experience at Noma's pop-up in Tulum and Criollo in Oaxaca. Chef Bent gained local fame as the founding chef of Lola 55, a modern taqueria in San Diego that earned the prestigious Bib Gourmand recognition from the California Michelin Guide during his tenure. He also won on an episode of Beat Bobby Flay in 2021.
In 2022, Chef Bent departed Lola 55 to launch the Sonoran barbecue concept, initially as Papalito at Little Thief wine bar in North Park, followed by a stint at ModBom in downtown San Diego. By November 2023, he established Papalo as a standalone restaurant in La Mesa, taking over the space once occupied by Boss Bird Kitchen.

Papalo’s menu features slow-smoked Sonoran barbecue meats, offered in both sandwiches and platters. Signature dishes include Mole BBQ chicken, Mexican saffron fried rice, a smoked brisket cheeseburger, and beef short ribs. The restaurant also has a full bar with craft cocktails, local beer, agua fresca, and Mexican sodas.

City Tacos, founded by Torres and chef/partner Eduardo Baeza, has grown rapidly across San Diego since its inception in 2014. The duo has experimented with various ventures, including the now-closed Tortilla N’ Taco Factory and Tostadas in North Park, but have maintained success with their City Tacos locations, which include spots in La Mesa, Pacific Beach, Sorrento Valley, Encinitas, and Seaport Village. 

Papalo is located at 8323 La Mesa Boulevard in La Mesa Village. For more information, visit sonoranbbq.com.

Originally published on October 15, 2024.