Chef Drew Bent's Papalo Sonoran BBQ Closes In La Mesa After City Tacos Partnership Fails To Materialize, Plans To Reopen

Chef Drew Bent's Papalo Kitchen, celebrated for its Sonoran-style Mexican barbecue, has closed its doors in La Mesa with plans to relocate after a partnership with City Tacos ownership failed to materialize.

The closure of Papalo Sonoran Barbecue Kitchen comes after a partnership with Gerry Torres, founder of the City Tacos chain, failed to come to fruition. The union had been publicly announced in October 2024, claimed to be entered into to secure Papalo's future in La Mesa and beyond, but despite assertions by representatives at the time, it was never truly finalized.

Torres, who was expected to take over as the majority owner of Papalo, will still move forward with plans to repurpose the space at 8323 La Mesa Boulevard in La Mesa Village, which sits directly next door to a City Tacos location. However, instead of continuing Papalo as once planned, he will use the location to launch a new concept dubbed Tour of Tapas, which will serve a menu of Italians, Spanish and French small plates. 

This latest closure marks another relocation for Papalo, which has shifted multiple times since its inception. Initially launched as Papalito within the now-closed Little Thief wine bar in North Park, the concept moved to the short-lived and ill-conceived ModBom in downtown San Diego (which was accused of failing to provide many employees with tax documents) Plans for an additional South Park location also fell through last year. Bent then established his standalone La Mesa restaurant in late 2023. Now, Chef Bent is seeking a new space to continue his unique take on Sonoran barbecue.

"We are going to relocate to North Park for a short term (couple of months) residency before we secure a potential long term space," explained Chef Bent. "We are focusing on being open for service two/three days/wk and pushing our catering program, which can be served fresh daily. BBQ is best served fresh. It's what we built our name on and why we have gained national acclaim. We officially launch 12/6."

Chef Andrew "Drew" Bent has solidified his place as one of San Diego’s most creative chefs. A graduate of the Art Institute of California, Bent’s resume includes stints at renowned establishments like Searsucker, Puesto, and Carnitas’ Snack Shack. His culinary journey has taken him internationally to Noma's Tulum pop-up and Criollo in Oaxaca. Locally, Bent earned accolades as the founding chef of Lola 55, which gained Bib Gourmand recognition from the Michelin Guide during his tenure. In 2021, Bent won an episode of Beat Bobby Flay, further cementing his reputation.

In 2022, Bent shifted his focus to Papalo, offering a menu featuring dishes like Mole BBQ chicken, Mexican saffron fried rice, smoked brisket cheeseburgers, and beef short ribs. Papalo also featured a full bar serving craft cocktails, local beers, and traditional Mexican beverages like agua fresca. Despite the challenges, Chef Bent is optimistic about Papalo’s future. 

While the La Mesa chapter has closed, it is a positive sign that the eatery already has plans to reopen. Papalo will initially run its pop-up from Atypical Waffle at 3519 30th Street in San Diego's North Park, which recently announced it would be rebranding to become a new brunch-focused restaurant named Good Measure

For updates on Papalo's next move, visit sonoranbbq.com.

Originally published on November 16, 2024.